Stubborn Pug

Hi Everyone,

Haven't been here for awhile, but have been catching up on my reading.

I have been working closely with Bandit to teach him to come, sit, stay, lay down, and shake. he does it very well now. We are even at the point now that he doesn't get a treat everytime we do something. Wohoo! He is so cute! Well, what I am still struggling with is his stubbornness. I want to train him to come whenever my husband or I call him. Sometimes, he just sits there and stares at you like .... you want me? really? I think I will just stay where I am at. The only way to get him to move when he is in that mindset is to show him a treat. Any suggestions? Do I have to always have a treat?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreicated.

Thanks

Banditsmom

Recall training is important. In my view it warrants very generous giving out of treats for far longer than for other behaviours. Good treats, too. And lavish praise. You have to act really, really happy he came to you (even if you have been waiting 30 minutes in the rain for the little horror to come back and you are thoroughly fed up).

Snifter&Toddy wrote: (even if you have been waiting 30 minutes in the rain for the little horror to come back and you are thoroughly fed up).

Speaking from experience here?

I have one pug that we still struggle with on recall. It works best when I distract him by offering the ball. He will generally leave what he is doing and run up to play. The other pugs haul ass if I offer a treat. You gotta figure out what works.

Oh so true the idea of praising the little darling when they finally come to you even if it takes what seems like forever! Never let your frustration or emotions take over when teaching the recall. Praise, treats, frantic crazy dancing or whatever it takes to let them know you are thrilled they came to you. Try to vary the scenario when he comes to you....throw a treat between your legs and make him go under after it, run backwards as he runs towards you, quickly turn around and face the other way when he gets close...keeps their brain working and puts an element of fun into coming when called.Try not to make each recall end with snapping a leash/collar/harness on. Give the reward and keep on playing. Even after 5 years of dog classes Stubby still gets treats on an irregular schedule. He never knows when one might appear so he keeps his eye on me just in case. Keep the training sessions fun for both of you. If he is unreliable to return to you, never give him the chance to make a mistake and put himself (or you) in harm's way.

PS Have you considered a dog obedience class or are you currently attending one because you will get lots of support and practice in a controlled area.

Totally biased here because I teach obedience classes, but if you aren't doing it, it is well worth it.

Having said that, the outstanding characteristic of almost all of my pugs is stubbornness. Tank has made it an art form. And I don't care if I treat for the rest of their lives--I WANT them to have a reliable recall (which I define as returning to me 95 to 98% of the time). I practice this will all my dogs every day in one way or another. Might be worth thinking about using a drag line (LONG leash--10 feet or more) so that when the little rotter doesn't immediately come, you can use the leash to gently reel him in--and I do mean gently. Then you treat and praise.

There is a terrific variation on NILIF called Learn to Earn that is promoted by Dr. Sophia Yin. I've been instituting it with my dogs and we've started using it in our dog training school.

Both of her books "Perfect puppies" and "how to behave so your dog behaves" are relatively inexpensive and a wealth of information:
http://drsophiayin.com/dogproducts

I"ve copied and pasted an article on Treat Hierarchy in a new topic thread--worth reading. I have a relatively elaborate treat hierarchy depending on the dog, what I'm training for and how important the behaviour is to me.

Thank you everyone for all your suggestions.

We have not yet signed up for an obedience class, though we are considering it though I don't know of any place in the area that is good. Guess that will be more research for me to do. Thank you again, I am always open for suggestions.

Banditsmom

Also, not sure if it's been said, but not much will ruin training faster than empty commands. When training, you don't want to call him to you if he has the option to not listen. Work on recall training with him on a long leash. Also, never call him to you to "punish" or if you're mad. Don't call him into the house if it means fun and play time is over. Don't call him to you to kennel him before you go.

I'm under the understanding that even if a dog gets off leash and tries to run away, if you call him and he listens, you immediately praise him hugely. If you call him to you and he listens, but you yell at him for running away, he won't remember that and will less likely come back again at a different time.

Also, when training important things like recall, use very, very, very high value treats.

Finally, realize that pugs are stubborn. My pug is pretty reliable off leash in a safe setting and will come when called, but he is 8 years old and we have done a lot of one on one training. We often hike over a mile a few times a week. Growing up our spaniel used to run out the door and was gone like the wind. He never came when called. But the reason he would run like that is because he didn't get enough exercise for his breed. He would actually run outside, circle the neighborhood, and come back when he was done (with us all on his heels). Because I have enough time to exercise the heck out of my pug now, I think he's less likely to run away. Plus, like I said, we have 8 years of bonding.

Ahhh, the recall. I'm also an obedience instructor and the first thing I tell my students is to look at the recall through your dog's eyes. Your dog is outside, chasing squirrels, playing with other dogs, generally having a good time and all the sudden he hears you call. Many times it means these things:

1. I'm going to my crate.

2. I'm getting my nails done.

3. I'm getting a bath.

4. I'm getting yelled at.

5. Some other unpleasant thing is going to happen.

6. Some other boring thing is going to happen.

7. Omg, listen to my owner and look at the expression on their face, thanks, I'll just stay put.

The classic example is getting your dog to come while they're at the dog park. I've seen people literally take hours trying to get their dog.

Put yourself in your dog's shoes. There's just not much of a motivation to come now is there. Remember, a good recall can save your dog's life. It's worth your while to make your dog WANT to come. Here's how you do it.

1. Start with no distractions and the dog in the same room with you. Get some good treats.

2. Think of how you want to call your dog. For most dogs, come is a four letter word and if that's the case at your house, use something else. Something that's loud and easy to do. I roll my tongue and I can do that loud.

3. Call your dog or make your sound. If things are boring and the dog is in the same room, he'll usually come. Heap on the praise and treats. The next step is important and it is to let your dog go back to whatever he was doing. You want your dog to learn he never loses coming to you.

4. Practice repeatedly until your dog is consistently coming in the same room with you.

5. Practice now with you in one room and your dog in another and again lots of treats and happy talk and let the dog go on about his business after he comes.

6. Practice in the backyard again with good treats and lots of happy talk.

7.Practice at the park, Petsmart, schoolyard and so forth.

8. Practice makes perfect. Don't expect to practice a few times and the dog will reliably come. Practice until its a reflex. On nice days I take handfuls of treats and practice, I call the dogs and throw treats on the ground, they love it.

9. Play hide and seek with your dog and when he finds you, throw a treat party.

I read someone once that practicing a recall is like putting money in the bank, the more times you practice, the bigger you are making your recall account and the more likely your dog is to come when you really need him to is considered a withdrawal. I want my account big and fat so my withdrawal will not affect it. I hope this makes sense.

One day my dogs escaped my backyard and were way on down the road by the time I found out, luckily all I had to do was roll my tongue and they all came flying back. I was super happy that I had practiced!

Oh and when something unpleasant is going to happen, bath, nail trim, vet visit or so forth, I usually go get my dog or call them some other way and save my tongue roll sound for practicing or for emergencies so it's always a good thing for my dogs. I always give them treats for a good recall so that those times that I can't reward the dog are far and few between and my dog knows this is a sure thing.

Snifter&Toddy wrote:You have to act really, really happy he came to you (even if you have been waiting 30 minutes in the rain for the little horror to come back and you are thoroughly fed up).

I know the feeling, Julian takes literally forever to do anything, potty, come, sleep, etc...